2006 Marsannay Boivin

Philippe Roty told me he was lucky he hadn't green-harvested or pulled leaves yet in Fontenys, Griottes or Mazis when the hail hit in late July, although he had started these activities elsewhere. He began harvesting on September 23 because he was afraid of losing more acidity and getting notes of surmaturite. "We eliminated more underripe than rotten grapes in '06," he told me. Roty does an eight-day pre-fermentation cold soak at 8oC, and one punchdown and one pumpover per day during the fermentation, which does not normally surpass 30oC. "We have plenty of color even before the alcoholic fermentation begins, and hotter temperatures could kill it; that wouldn't be stable color," he explained, adding that he vinifies with a "cocktail of local yeasts from Burgundy." As is normally the case here, the 2006s had been racked in April following the malo, and taken off their gross lees. Incidentally, Roty considers 2005 to be the domain's finest vintage since 1990.