2003 Marsannay Boivin
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The Roty family purchased a gentler pneumatic press in 2004, as well as a vibrating sorting table that made it much easier for them to eliminate grapes that were less ripe or compromised by hail. Philippe Roty told me that he and his father carried out their usual week-long cold maceration and a "normal" vinification.
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Philippe Roty told me he de-leafed early in 2003 on the north and west side of the vines, thus getting the grapes used to the sun.He started harvesting on August 29, after the worst of the heat. Roty told me he leaves only two branches on the vines in the fall, then prunes again in March.The result of this double pruning, he claims, is that he loses eight days of maturity as a result of later flowering but gains in acidity."When we pick at the same time as others, we have less sugar ripeness and more acidity, and in 2003 this helped us avoid surmaturite and make more primary wines."The Roty 2003s are generally in the 13.3% alcohol range, and crop levels were down 30% to 40% from the norm.Roty acidified some of his cuvees in the fermenter, but otherwise did the same vinifications as usual. "Our wines are not made to respond to the tastes of the market; they're made for the long term," he noted. In November, the 2003s were aging in all new and once-used barrels.
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