2011 Volnay
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The malolactic fermentations were long and slow here, and the 2011s had been racked and fined just three weeks prior to my visit; Boillot planned to bottle the wines in December. Boillot started picking chardonnay on August 29, then attacked the pinot on September 1, with very healthy potential alcohol levels (ranging from 12.8% to 13.2%) making chaptalization unnecessary. As Boillot normally picks on the early side for acid retention, I was surprised by the very ripe black fruit and chocolate character of a number of his 2011s. "There were no green or rotten grapes," he told me, "and it was very easy to eliminate the berries that had been dried by hail on our vibrating table." Boillot noted that pHs were in the relatively low 3.3 to 3.35 range, or roughly the same as the 2010s, but that the 2010s had crunchier fruit. Boillot uses the same yeast strain for all of his pinots (he uses "two or three" for his chardonnays) because it works well at low temperature and ensures a slow fermentation.
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Email: vb@vineyardbrands.com
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