2005 Volnay

According to Lydie Boillot, the various hailstorms in 2006 affected the family's chardonnay vines more than the pinot, and ultimately there was more rot than in 2004, requiring up to 30% of the fruit to be discarded on the sorting table. But potential alcohols were in the healthy 12.5% to 13% range, and no chaptalization was necessary. After the selection, the Boillots will actually bottle a bit less wine than in 2005: 36 hectoliters per hectare, vs. 38 the previous year. The Boillots did no pigeages during fermentation with their 2006 pinots, except for the Pommard Rugiens, relying instead on remontage. But then they were already phasing out pigeage in 2005. According to Lydie, the 2006s show their terroir character more clearly than either the 2005s or 2004s. Incidentally, Boillot has used 50% new oak for the premier crus since 2004, up from 30% before that. "That reflects the taste of our clients," Lydie explained. "They want less extraction and more new oak." (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"A medium-sized crop, a superb harvest, and easy-to-make wines," said Boillot about 2005. "Certainly one of the best red wine vintages I've ever made. The wines have very good fruit and acidity, and the tannins are silky." Boillot waited until March of 2006 to bottle his 2004s because he thought they needed the additional depth that a bit more elevage would bring. But he planned to bottle the 2005s earlier "because they're great the way they are." Incidentally, Boillot believes that the 2005s will always taste good and will never shut down dramatically in the bottle. The wines had been racked into stainless steel cuves a few weeks before my visit but Boillot had not yet decided whether they would be fined prior to bottling. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL) Also recommended: Volnay (86).