2016 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru

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Geraldine Godot had a different take on vintages 2016 and 2015 than most of the winemakers I visited this winter. She considers the two sets of wines to have more similarities than differences, noting that she finds “more density in 2015 but more concentration in 2016, even if it was partly due to evaporation” (the estate-wide average production was just 12 hectoliters per hectare in ’16, according to Godot, or 70% less than normal). She did a maximum of three pigeages per cuvée in both vintages, as the colors came easily. Godot told me she prefers 2015 for its energy. “The ‘15s are very precise by appellation, while the ‘16s are more all over the place,” she added, noting that “we were pessimistic about 2016 while it was happening but afterwards it’s not so bad.”

Domaine de l’Arlot started harvesting in 2016 on September 27, and Godot told me she needed to vinify with a high percentage of whole clusters (roughly similar to her practice in 2015) simply to have enough volume in the tanks, even though she didn’t have full confidence in the ripeness of the stems. As in 2015, she acidified a couple of cuvées (the Clos de l'Arlot and Clos du Chapeau), and pHs in both years are around 3.5.

Godot told me that she believes the ‘15s can be opened early, especially with a decanting, and that she prefers to drink a vintage like this on the young side. And she particularly enjoys the crushed strawberry and rose petal notes she finds in the Clos de l’Arlot, Suchots and Romanée-Saint-Vivant. This is an ideal set of wines for making the case that extensive use of whole clusters can make vibrant wines even in hot years.

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