2011 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru

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New winemaker Jacques Devauges arrived at L’Arlot on August 8th. One month later, the entire 2011 crop was in the door! To put that in perspective, the 2013 harvest took place a full month later. Devauges commented that the fruit moved very quickly from ripe to overripe, so picking decisions were critical. Most of the 2011s were bottle in February 2013, with the exception of the Clos des Forets and Romanée Saint Vivant, where the malos were slow and the wines needed another two months in barrel before being bottled.

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Jacques Devauges, who had previously worked with Frederic Magnien, signed on as technical director here literally a month before the 2011 harvest began on September 2, and his team arrived two weeks after he did. Their first step was to do a pass through the vineyards to pull leaves and eliminate rotten berries. As a result, little selection was needed at harvest time. The team picked quickly because Devauges did not want to get jammy fruit flavors. Devauges describes the 2011s as "fruity, vivid wines." The grape sugars did not mount during warm conditions in late August, and Devauges told me he had no idea why. He expects to continue in the style of previous winemaker Olivier Leriche, seeking to make "as precise as possible an expression of terroir." He selects the millerande grapes off the sorting table and vinifies these with whole clusters owing to their riper stems, but destems the rest of his fruit without crushing the grapes. All of the 2011s had been racked in August. (A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com; also imported by Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com)

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