1996 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru

Jean Pierre de Smet considers 1997 to be a very good example of an early- drinking vintage. "Their structure is not large, and they have limited ageability, but they will be attractive, friendly wines," is how he describes the '97s. Grape sugars were high but not outrageous (potential alcohol, according to de Smet, was between 12.5% and 13.2%), and extremely little chaptalization was done. The overall yield for the domain was just 24 hectoliters per hectare, the same as in '95. Incidentally, de Smet is not enamored of the selection massale that was done in the estate Romanee Saint Vivant plot when it was planted in 1973, feeling that the heavy clusters and large berries produce a wine that a bit too fine and lacking in power. As a result, he has been eliminating some of the unsatisfactory plants in recent years, replanting 10%-15% each year. (Numerous importers, including Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; Chateau & Estate Wines, New York, NY; Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA)

Jean-Pierre de Smet believes that his '96s are fresher, more intensely flavored, more structured wines than the '95s-even though the average yield for the estate was significantly higher in '96 (39 hectoliters per hectare, vs. 24). Grape sugars were also considerably higher in '96, and very little chaptalization was needed. At the time of my November visit, de Smet planned to bottle the wines early, in December. (Numerous importers, including Daniel Johnnes/ Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; Chateau & Estate Wines, New York, NY; Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA)