2007 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru

Due to rot issues, Olivier Leriche vinified in 2008 with a lower percentage of whole clusters than usual-and even less than in 2007. But he reported that the grapes were ripe, with potential alcohol levels ranging from 12.4% to 13.1%. And the skins were thicker in 2008 than in the previous year. Leriche loves the balance of the new vintage: he believes the 2008s will be long agers but that they have the fruit to give early pleasure. The 2007s are considerably lighter wines that will evolve faster, but the estate's top cuvees are subtle and refined. (A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; also imported by Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA and Ex-Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA)

Olivier Leriche tactfully described 2007 as a special vintage. "It was a very early vintage but completely different in style from 2003," he explained. "After the very early start to the season followed by three bad summer months, we only started picking on August 31-almost 120 days after the flowering, compared to 90 in 2003. In 2007, we had the time to wait for good ripeness," he said, adding that he worked with a small picking team and proceeded slowly. In the end, grape sugars were between 12.5% and 13%. Leriche eliminated 5% to 20% of the fruit according to vineyard and will ultimately make a moderate 37 hectoliters per hectare. There was little in the way of tannins. "In one sense a vintage needs tannins, but these wines will have the advantage of being drinkable early," said Leriche, who destemmed more than usual in 2007, another reason why this is a relatively light vintage here. The 2006s I tasted from bottle show more structure. (A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; also imported by Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA and Ex-Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA)