2006 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

Dugat presented his '06s before his '07s, as he feels that the younger vintage "shows more volume and sturdiness than 2006, with a similar level of acidity." He clearly views the '07s as riper than the '06s but emphasizes that it's not simply a question of grape sugars. In my tastings, I was intrigued by the distinctly firm edge of a number of the 2006s, which gives them excellent thrust. Incidentally, Dugat's Bourgogne rouge is excellent in both vintages: sexy, lush and sweet in 2007 and juicy, spicy and vibrant in 2006, with distinctly black flavors. In 2007, Dugat started picking on the first of September, bringing in fruit with 12.5% to 13% natural alcohol and chaptalizing about a half-degree. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)

I should not have been surprised that Claude Dugat expressed a preference for the 2006 vintage, which he describes as "very pinot, and about elegance. Yes, there's less structure and power than in '05, as well as less sheer volume of fruit, but the '06s are more taut and stylish." He went on: "Two thousand five can be a bit too much. I like the real pinot, and when it's too hot or dry, you don't get that." I'm with Dugat in theory, but his 2005 Charmes and Griottes are elixirs that will cure whatever ails you. Dugat told me that the typical 2006 here came in with 12.5% potential alcohol and was chaptalized to 13%. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)