2004 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Claude Dugat described the 2005s as "very easy, with lots of fruit. But they're a little more in surmaturite than really fruity." In other words, he went on, the wines show the vintage more than they do the terroir. Dugat, whose tireless work in the vines and low yields bring him ripe fruit early, can be penalized in the warmest years, and often needs to start picking, with special dispensation, prior to the ban de vendange. Still, the 2005s avoid the excesses of a vintage like 1997 here, and I found plenty of pinot sap in these very rich wines, which are distinctly rounder than his 2004s. Incidentally, Dugat advises waiting five or six years on the '04s. "Before that, they are likely to be rather taut and tight," he said. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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Dugat describes his 2004s as "like 2001, but fruitier. I like the elegance of the wines. "A couple of these wines may ultimately turn out even better than my projected scores suggest. Fans of this modest superstar's wines will be happy to know that his 2003s, ripe and rich as they are, have gone into bottle with plenty of freshness. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )
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