2005 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

I should not have been surprised that Claude Dugat expressed a preference for the 2006 vintage, which he describes as "very pinot, and about elegance. Yes, there's less structure and power than in '05, as well as less sheer volume of fruit, but the '06s are more taut and stylish." He went on: "Two thousand five can be a bit too much. I like the real pinot, and when it's too hot or dry, you don't get that." I'm with Dugat in theory, but his 2005 Charmes and Griottes are elixirs that will cure whatever ails you. Dugat told me that the typical 2006 here came in with 12.5% potential alcohol and was chaptalized to 13%. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)

Claude Dugat described the 2005s as "very easy, with lots of fruit. But they're a little more in surmaturite than really fruity." In other words, he went on, the wines show the vintage more than they do the terroir. Dugat, whose tireless work in the vines and low yields bring him ripe fruit early, can be penalized in the warmest years, and often needs to start picking, with special dispensation, prior to the ban de vendange. Still, the 2005s avoid the excesses of a vintage like 1997 here, and I found plenty of pinot sap in these very rich wines, which are distinctly rounder than his 2004s. Incidentally, Dugat advises waiting five or six years on the '04s. "Before that, they are likely to be rather taut and tight," he said. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)