2003 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Dugat describes his 2004s as "like 2001, but fruitier. I like the elegance of the wines. "A couple of these wines may ultimately turn out even better than my projected scores suggest. Fans of this modest superstar's wines will be happy to know that his 2003s, ripe and rich as they are, have gone into bottle with plenty of freshness. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )
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Like a few other of Burgundy's most conscientious grape-growers whose viticultural techniques are all designed to produce ripe, balanced fruit early, Dugat was penalized by the extremely warm, early harvest in 1997:his fruit was virtually overripe by the date of the ban de vendange (Dugat and a few others actually got permission from the local wine police to start picking earlier).His 2003s show similarly extreme ripeness, but appear to be less exaggerated than the '97s at a similar stage.Like most recent vintages here, these extremely rich and sexy wines will be avidly sought in the marketplace. Dugat's finished 2002s are utterly compelling wines, among the stars of the vintage.He describes 2002 as "a cross between '93 and '95:tighter than '93 but with less tough tannins than the '95s." (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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