2002 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

Like a few other of Burgundy's most conscientious grape-growers whose viticultural techniques are all designed to produce ripe, balanced fruit early, Dugat was penalized by the extremely warm, early harvest in 1997:his fruit was virtually overripe by the date of the ban de vendange (Dugat and a few others actually got permission from the local wine police to start picking earlier).His 2003s show similarly extreme ripeness, but appear to be less exaggerated than the '97s at a similar stage.Like most recent vintages here, these extremely rich and sexy wines will be avidly sought in the marketplace. Dugat's finished 2002s are utterly compelling wines, among the stars of the vintage.He describes 2002 as "a cross between '93 and '95:tighter than '93 but with less tough tannins than the '95s." (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)

The reticent Dugat describes his succulent 2002s as wines with more fruit but less structure than his 2001s.On my most recent visit to this squeaky-clean, deep cellar, Dugat made a point of telling me he prefers 'elegance' to 'finesse' as a descriptor. A wine can be elegant and powerful,' he explained. 'But finesse is often used to describe a light wine.'Dugat's utterly captivating wines, from carefully controlled yields and very ripe fruit (like Mortet, Dugat started harvesting before the official ban de vendange in 2002), will never be described as light.(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington D.C.