2010 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra

These are three beautiful Barolos from Conterno-Fantino, a small, family-run property that embodies the finest values of Piedmont's agrarian tradition. The 2010s were vinified in rotary fermenters, as they have been for years, although skin contact is a bit longer than in the past. All of the Barolos undergo malolactic fermentation and the first year of aging in 100% new French oak barrels. In the second year, the wines are aged partly or entirely in cask, which seems to be introducing a level of transparency and translucency these wines did not have when they were done entirely in French oak. The 2010s were bottled in May 2013, a little earlier than normal because of a desire to preserve as much fruit as possible and limit the amount the wines spend in steel. Conterno-Fantino has been making fabulous wines for many years, but the best is still to come. The attention to detail here, especially when it comes to farming, is second to none.

Guido Fantino's son Fabio, who apparently chose enology school over soccer, told me that the estate has reduced its use of new barriques for its Barolos to 80% in search of a more elegant style but also noted that the family is the last to pick in their great cru Ginestra (despite the fact that uncle Claudio generally prefers to pick earlier with good acidity and low pH). Fabio told me that the nebbiolo remained in good condition through the harvest of 2009 but that the 2010s are more classic.