2000 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra
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2013 - 2020
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Conterno-Fantino's 2000s showed beautifully when I tasted them at the estate in November 2010. The wines aren't built for the long-term, but they have matured evenly.
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Guido Fantino's deeply colored, glossy, modern-style wines rarely disappoint, and he has made another set of explosive red wines in vintage 2001. Says Fantino: "The 1999s have great charisma, and are very typical of our zone. But the 2001s are even better. They have more character, more flesh; they're more complete, with more tannins but riper and sweeter tannins. "
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Based on the 1996 through 2000 vintages, it's hard to avoid the conclusion that Guido Fantino's Barolo Sori Ginestra is one of the Piedmont's great wines, with its exhilarating combination of power and perfume. Fantino has added a new Barolo to his portfolio, from leased 40-year-old vines in Parussi, in Castiglione Falletto (his first vintage was 1997). The improvement in this cuvee between '97 and '99 was striking, and Fantino admitted that it took until 1999 "to get the vineyard right." I ventured the opinion that this wine may soon surpass Fantino's Vigna del Gris, which also comes from the Ginestra vineyard; Fantino reminded me that this latter 45-year-old parcel is in the process of being replanted (in 2000, he had just 30% of a normal crop here due to the replanting program). Fantino describes '98 and '99 as two very similar vintages "in the character of the nebbiolo." Two thousand, he went on, is a very elegant, feminine style of wine. But a moment later he told me that it's also massive and structured, with plenty of sweet tannins.
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