2006 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra

Guido Fantino describes 2006 as warm, especially during the summer. A spell of rain in mid-September refreshed the vines and set the stage for a Nebbiolo harvest that took place in early October, finishing on the 10th. The estate's 2006s are massive, powerful Barolos, yet possesses beautiful overall balance. Vinification remains very much reflective of the modern school, which is to say relatively short fermentations in rotary tanks, followed by malolactic fermentation and aging in 100% new oak. While the wood is clearly felt in these wines, in top vintages these Barolos come together beautifully in bottle. I also had a chance to taste the estate's 2007 and 2008 Barolos from barrel. For now, let me just say that there is no shortage of great wines maturing in these cellars.

Guido Fantino, whose dolcettos and barberas offer uncommon concentration and verve for consumers who cannot afford his Barolos, describes 2008 and 2007 as similar in style for dolcetto. "The 2006s were even bigger, maybe too big in some cases," he said, an opinion expressed by many of his neighbors. Fantino describes 2007 for Barolo as "a great year with grandiose fruit and real elegance." But 2006 is also an important vintage, he went on, with plenty of tannins and a lot of complexity: "2006, 2004 and 2001 are vintages for the barolistas." He likes 2005 for its freshness and advises consumers to wait two years even if the wines are drinkable already. I should note that Fantino's 2006 Barolo Mosconi has delivered on the promise it showed in barrel two years ago.