2005 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra

It is fascinating to revisit Conterno-Fantino's 2005s, as the wines have so much to say. The biggest takeaway is that in 2005 the fruit did not have the underlying richness to support malolactic fermentation and aging in 100% new French oak. As a result, the Vigna del Gris and Sorì Ginestra are aging prematurely without having entered a prime drinking window. Those wines are both overly hard, as they carry both the tannic structure of the early harvest as well as tannins from the oak. The Barolo Mosconi, which emerges from a south-facing site in Monforte, is the only wine that has handled the oak, as it had more stuffing at the outset. I have never viewed Mosconi Barolos as being especially elegant or refined, but there is little question the personality of the site was a huge advantage in 2005.

Guido Fantino, whose dolcettos and barberas offer uncommon concentration and verve for consumers who cannot afford his Barolos, describes 2008 and 2007 as similar in style for dolcetto. "The 2006s were even bigger, maybe too big in some cases," he said, an opinion expressed by many of his neighbors. Fantino describes 2007 for Barolo as "a great year with grandiose fruit and real elegance." But 2006 is also an important vintage, he went on, with plenty of tannins and a lot of complexity: "2006, 2004 and 2001 are vintages for the barolistas." He likes 2005 for its freshness and advises consumers to wait two years even if the wines are drinkable already. I should note that Fantino's 2006 Barolo Mosconi has delivered on the promise it showed in barrel two years ago.

This is a gorgeous set of wines from Conterno-Fantino. My November visit coincided with the first of several heavy snowfalls the region experienced during the winter of 2008/2009. Navigating the steep hills of Monforte and environs was oddly calming as there was no one on the roads. As for the wines, they were magnificent. Conterno-Fantino fans have much to look forward to as the estate's 2006, 2007 and 2008 Barolos all appeared very promising when I tasted them from barrel. In the meantime, these fine 2005s are among the most gorgeous and well-balanced wines I encountered. Not much has changed here in terms of vinification. The 2005s were vinified in rotary fermenters and aged in 100% new French oak barrels from coopers Taransaud, Boutes and Quintessence. Be that as it may, the wines seem increasingly elegant and refined. Conterno-Fantino remains one of my favorite producers in Piedmont and are to be commended for the consistently high quality they deliver across their entire range.