2003 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra
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Conterno-Fantino's 2003s are gorgeous today. Fabio Fantino describes 2003 as a vintage in which the grapes were naturally quite ripe. Macerations were kept to 5 days. The wines were aged in 100% new French oak barrels. At the time, Conterno-Fantino also made a third Barolo, from Parussi in Castiglione Falletto.
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Guido Fantino managed to make one of the stars of the 2003 vintage in his Sori Ginestra, but his 2004s are in another quality league entirely. He compares the 2004 vintage to 1978, and the 2001s to the 1989s. "The 2004s are vibrant, balanced wines from perfect grapes," he told me. "They are great across the board. The wines have a very fresh structure and excellent balance and should be long-lived. They're fresher than the 2001s, a bit cooler in style. " He then announced that 2006 may be the best vintage of all of these. "The wines have great fruit, great tannins and outstanding structure. And they are elegant. " My early look at this new set of wines suggested that 2006 will certainly be the best vintage yet for Conterno's new Mosconi bottling, a wine from a 35-year-old vineyard, half of which was replanted in 1998.
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Things haven't changed much at Conterno-Fantino, at least not yet. The estate continues to make sleek, modern-styled Barolos aged in 100% new French oak. Guido Fantino tells me h is son Fabio has begun aging a few lots of h is own wine in mid-size casks, so it will be interesting to see the direction the new generation takes. The estate has a new Barolo from the Mosconi vineyard that will make its debut with the 2004 vintage. My early impressions from cask of th is and the estate's other 2004 Barolos are positive.
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