2004 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra
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2015 - 2026
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Conterno-Fantino's 2004 Barolos have aged nicely. Although the estate has backed off the 100% new French oak in recent years, the 2004s were made in a decidedly full-throttle, modernist style. Over time, the pedigree of the sites Conterno-Fantino works with has become even more evident than it was when the wines were younger. The Ginestra in particular shines in 2004.
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2014 - 2024
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I have long enjoyed the Conterno-Fantino Barolos but in recent years Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino have taken their wines to an entirely new level. These Barolos can often be massively structured and difficult to evaluate at an early stage yet the 2004s have incredibly sweet, ripe tannins that makes them a pure joy to taste. Simply put, this is a superb collection of 2004 Barolos. “We harvested most of our fruit on October 5 and 6,” says Guido Fantino. “We did 6-8 days of fermentation after which the wines went into French oak (100% new). The malos were very long and weren't completely finished until January.”
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Guido Fantino managed to make one of the stars of the 2003 vintage in his Sori Ginestra, but his 2004s are in another quality league entirely. He compares the 2004 vintage to 1978, and the 2001s to the 1989s. "The 2004s are vibrant, balanced wines from perfect grapes," he told me. "They are great across the board. The wines have a very fresh structure and excellent balance and should be long-lived. They're fresher than the 2001s, a bit cooler in style. " He then announced that 2006 may be the best vintage of all of these. "The wines have great fruit, great tannins and outstanding structure. And they are elegant. " My early look at this new set of wines suggested that 2006 will certainly be the best vintage yet for Conterno's new Mosconi bottling, a wine from a 35-year-old vineyard, half of which was replanted in 1998.
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