1997 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
France
Pauillac 2ème Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot
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2019 - 2025
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Pichon-Lalande picked its older cabernet vines very late in '99, in early October; a bit of petit verdot, says technical director Thomas Do-Chi-Nam, added a violet lift to the wine. Even though there's more merlot in the wine than usual (47%), added Do-Chi-Nam, the vintage has more aging potential than the '98. Among the recent modifications here are temperature control in the estate's concrete tanks beginning with the '99 harvest. There are now ten tanks, allowing the estate to segregate and vinify its various parcels more carefully. Pichon-Lalande also invested in a new concentrator (the old Entropie system was installed at their Chateau Bernadotte), and eliminated a good 10% of the crop in '99.
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This estate used the Entropie system in '98 to remove part of the water from rain-swelled grapes. Although the cabernets were picked in early October, the wine-making team was quite high on the franc, and the assemblage this year includes a full 15% franc to go along with 55% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot. Maceration was a bit shorter than usual for this vintage, and the percentage of new oak was raised to 65% from a more typical 50%. Still, the '98 Pichon-Lalande does not appear to have the opulence or ripeness of the best recent vintages.
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This chateau picked its cabernet sauvignon in '97 with the same grape sugars as the previous year, but with lower acidity. The '97 also features a relatively high 10% petit verdot, which was picked late and thoroughly ripe. The '96 Pichon-Lalande is shaping up extremely well, and the finished '95 is a knockout. The estate describes the '96 as "like '86 but much riper." The utterly silky '95, in comparison, is very much a merlot wine here. In fact, during the course of my tasting, marketing director Gildas d'Ollone told me that renowned Bordeaux enologist Pascal Ribereau-Gayon mistook the estate '96 cabernet sauvignon for merlot at a tasting of components, so velvety were its texture and tannins.
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