2000 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten
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If Nikolaihof preached the gospel of early harvest in 2000, Toni Bodenstein of Prager insisted forcefully on the need for long hang time as a requisite for full phenolic ripeness. Last year witnessed the exciting first wine from Bodenstein's young vines high up in the Hinterseiber vineyard. Next year, there will certainly be another sort of excitement, as he has acquired significant new acreage in Achleiten, split between riesling and gruner veltliner vines planted in 1947. "Pre-clonal?" I asked. quot;That would be an understatement," replied Bodenstein. quot;Each vine in this parcel is a personality unto itself, and the gruner veltliner vines look so different from one another I could hardly believe they are the same grape variety."