2011 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten

In an appellation where overripe fruit often trumps the character of the individual vineyards, Toni Bodenstein has long been a positive exception. More than anywhere else in the Wachau, the differences between vintages and sites are readily apparent here, even transparent. For many collectors, Bodenstein is best known for his rieslings, which some have called almost Germanic in style. I view that description as positive: clear, precise, fresh and a touch reductive in character during their youth, they are pure expressions of the variety that reflect the character of their soils. In fact, his bottlings from Klaus and Wachstüm Bodenstein--a high-altitude vineyard he planted when he married into the estate--are about as fine as riesling can be in Austria. Although the 2011s were equally successful here, Bodenstein likes the fact that the alcohols in 2012 appear slightly lower and better balanced. (www.weingutprager.at) Also recommended: 2012 Riesling Federspiel Steinriegel (87), 2012 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Hinter der Burg (87).