1997 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten
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Toni Bodenstein and his multiplicity of great terroirs teamed up in '97 for one of the most exciting collections of dry rieslings (plus one phenomenal gruner veltliner) I've ever tasted. Bodenstein uses a starter fermentation to develop a yeast population capable of dealing with ripe juice, and he was happy that the wines came as close as they did to total dryness. Yet they are a bit lower in alcohol than the top '97s at many other Danubian estates.