1998 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten
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Toni Bodenstein is full of enthusiasm for his '98s, comparing them with '93 and '90. "In 1990, too," he says, "we had botrytis and high acids, but those wines are really fun to drink now." He held off harvesting until November, then made an intense selection of fruit through many passes in the vineyards and sorting at the press house. Pressing was light and quick and avoided skin contact. This year, some of each of the excellent, site-specific Prager rieslings will come to the States.