1995 Pape Clément
France
Pessac Léognan Grand Cru Classé, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
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2024 - 2036
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It was an outstanding evening of fine food, fine wine and even finer friendship. Medlar delivered yet again, not just in terms of the impressive standard of cooking that complemented these bottles with aplomb, but particularly the sommelier team that handled all these bottles with care, skill and all-important smiles.
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Bernard Pujol, who now does half his malolactic fermentation in barriques, adjusted his vinification in '97 "to respect the fruit" of the vintage. The temperature of fermentation was kept cooler, remontages were gentler and shorter, and there was less maceration after the fermentation ended. The tannic structure of the vintage, says Pujol, is hidden by fruit. Pape Clement is normally harvested a week or two later than Haut Brion just a couple of miles up the road, and Pujol points out that the '97 will be 12.7% alcohol with very little chaptalization.
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Vintage generalizations are particularly hard to make in the Graves, as witness this estate, located just down the road from Haut Brion and La Mission. The '94 Pape-Clément, while a good wine, shows the slight dry edge characteristic of this vintage in the Médoc, and little of the texture of the '94s made at Haut Brion and La Mission. But in '95, a tougher year for Haut Brion and La Mission, Pape Clément made a harmonious, concentrated wine, benefitting from cabernet sauvignon riper than the previous year's. Go figure. Bernard Pujol began doing part of his malolactic fermentation in barrel beginning in 1994, and this technique has no doubt enabled him to make the most of the raw materials of '95.
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