1998 Pape Clément
France
Pessac Léognan Grand Cru Classé, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon (2023 vintage)
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2022 - 2045
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2018 - 2028
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La Trompette, established 2001, used to be a good local restaurant but lagged behind others owned by Nigel Platts-Martin, such as Chez Bruce, The Ledbury, The Glasshouse and The Square (the latter since sold and frankly a pale imitation of what used to be one of the capitals finest restaurants.) Located in Chiswick in West London, it literally lies round the corner from Hedone that Antonio recently reviewed. Refurbishment in 2013 saw La Trompette shut its doors and reopen with more ambition. Rob Weston, who had worked at La Gavroche and subsequently as Phil Howard’s right hand man at The Square for 15-years, took the menu to a completely different level. I am probably not the only person opining that La Trompette is the most consistent, well-priced, Michelin-starred restaurant in London and I say that as someone who has eaten there 30 or 40 times.
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"In '98, the merlot was surmuri and gave the wine a velvety texture. In '99 the cabernet was very ripe. But in 2000, both ripened thoroughly," said director Eric Larramona, adding that the cabernet harvest here did not end until October 10. "We got color very quickly; in fact, we shorted the maceration to avoid getting too much structure."
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Pape-Clement picked its cabernet in the rain in '99 but with very high potential alcohol. The large merlot crop was held down by severe green harvesting, with the result that the overall yield was a very reasonable 42 hectoliters per hectare in '99 (compared to 38 in '98). The estate's white wine contains a lower-than-normal 40% of sauvignon blanc, as the sauvignon, according to Director Eric Larramona, was too aromatic and powerful, and would have dominated the blend. I have also included a tasting note on the Ch. Poumey, which Pape-Clement makes through a fermage arrangement.
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Under new director Monsieur Larramona, Pape-Clement did significant crop-thinning in 1998, thereby providing the remaining grapes with better aeration. The estate thus was able to wait longer to harvest without risking rot. Ultimately the merlot was picked late, and quickly, beginning September 26. Tannin levels were virtually the same as in '96, and the estate carried out a longer-than-usual cuvaison My early look at the '98 revealed a rather powerful Pape-Clement, despite the relatively high 55% merlot.
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