2003 Montrose
France
Saint Estèphe
Bordeaux
Red
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
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2025 - 2045
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This superb chateau, in the process of being sold to a French industrialist, has made a tannic, long-aging 2005 with an IPT reading similar to that of the estate's massive 2003, but with a lower pH and equal potential longevity. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the 2005 vintage as "like 2004 but with more of everything." The young 2005 has puzzled many early tasters, as it's so fine-grained it feels almost weightless, and its density is not obvious. The wine was also quite youthfully austere in early April, conveying a strong impression of minerality.
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This chateau has been on a roll in the new millennium, and the 2004 is once again a superstar of the vintage. According to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue, 2004 is a surprising vintage, in which "the maturity was made in September." He explained: "During the magnificent September, warm days and cool nights eliminated any possibility of rot. We feared dilution due to the big crop [57 hectoliters per hectare], but although the clusters were huge, the individual grapes were of a normal size. There was a lot of concentration of color and tannins. The wines are supple and fat, not austere, with the tannins more elegant than those of the 2002."
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Montrose was the third visit on the first morning of my tour of Bordeaux, and I can't say that I tasted a better wine during my entire time in the region. What Montrose showed in early spring that no other 2003 could quite match was a powerful, energetic attack and then no letup at all right through to its extraordinary, gripping, expanding finish. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue told me the 2003 Montrose was fatter and richer than the extraordinary 1996, with an IPT even higher than that earlier gem (at least 85!). "It's a wine of sunshine, not surmaturite," he told me. Grape sugars ranged from 13.2% to 13.9%, the highest since 1990, a year that Laguarigue has always described as atypically ripe for the chateau and a bit over the top. "The 2003 combines the charm and opulence of the '89 with the classic quality of '96," he summarized. Interestingly, the yield here was about 34 hectoliters per hectare, or about the same as that of the previous year. Bargain-hunters will want to look for this estate's second wine, Les Dames de Montrose, which at the end of March showed a middle-palate lushness of texture and sweetness that should give it considerable early appeal.
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