1997 Montrose
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Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the '99 Montrose as fatter than the '98, with higher tannins levels, higher alcohol and higher pH. Following substantial eclaircissage (crop thinning) in the merlot vines, the estate got fairly even ripeness, harvesting on September 16 before the worst of the rain. In contrast to the majority of chateaux I visited, Montrose did more extraction than average with the '99 crop: while the tannins in the fat, expressive Dames de Montrose are a bit rustic, those in the grand vin do not seem to be overdone.
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"Not an easy style of Montrose" is the way regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the new '98, a wine made from a near-typical blend of 62% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 8% cabernet franc and petit verdot. Incidentally, Laguarigue claims that the '98 Dames de Montrose is more powerful than the '96 (despite including 45% merlot), but at the level of the grand vin the '96 is in a class of its own.
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Proprietor Jean-Louis Charmolue compares his '97 Montrose to the '93, "but it is more concentrated. And it certainly a lighter wine than the '96, without that year's aging potential." Still, he adds, the wine is ripe, and even the '94 is in a tougher style. Only 45% of the estate's production went into the grand vin in '97, and the blend features considerably more merlot than the previous year. The '96 Montrose, incidentally, continues to look like a classic vintage for fans of this wine, and much more typical than the freakishly ripe 1990. "1996 was not an especially hot year," notes Charmolue, "but the wine features ripe tannins and managed to retain aromatic freshness." Charmolue compares the '96-"the best vintage since I've been here"-to the 1928 and 1929 made on this property.
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