2005 Montrose
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2025 - 2055
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2025 - 2065
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When I mentioned to technical director Nicolas Glumineau that I thought the 2006 Montrose had been underextracted, perhaps due to the fact that new director Jean-Bernard Delmas, who ran Chateau Haut-Brion for more than 40 years, was just getting comfortable with St. Estephe fruit, he responded that that was probably not the reason for the relative lightness of this wine. "Perhaps we picked too early," he admitted. "And 2007 was really the first year for the new team here. The biggest change with the new team is at harvest time. We're paying more attention to maturity in the vineyard. There's really a two-week delay between the harvest in the Graves and up here in St. Estephe. This year we took our time and waited for the cabernet sauvignon to ripen. Previously we picked in 12 days straight here, but in 2007 we took a full three weeks. And we feel that a daily pumpover equivalent to the volume of the wine is enough to extract smooth, silky tannins. Under the old regime, the daily pumpover here was four times the volume of the wine." Glumineau went on to describe 2007 as a delicate wine in a delicate year: supple, soft and sweet, with good vinosity.
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This superb chateau, in the process of being sold to a French industrialist, has made a tannic, long-aging 2005 with an IPT reading similar to that of the estate's massive 2003, but with a lower pH and equal potential longevity. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the 2005 vintage as "like 2004 but with more of everything." The young 2005 has puzzled many early tasters, as it's so fine-grained it feels almost weightless, and its density is not obvious. The wine was also quite youthfully austere in early April, conveying a strong impression of minerality.
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