2004 Montrose
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2024 - 2040
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The new owners of this fabled chateau installed Jean-Bernard Delmas, who ran Chateau Haut-Brion for more than 40 years, as director. It remains to be seen if the streak of winners made here in recent vintages under ex-regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue will continue-and if the style of Montrose will change. The 2006 struck me as a bit underextracted, at least in the context of the St. Estephe appellation-certainly well-made but correct rather than exciting. Or was this simply a function of the difficulties of the vintage in the Northern Medoc, which by most accounts received more rain than vineyards farther to the south? The merlot was harvested fairly early here, between September 18 and 22, with the cabernet coming in between September 27 and October 3. The team green-harvested the entire property in 2006 for the first time, according to Delmas. The grand vin represents a 60% selection.
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This superb chateau, in the process of being sold to a French industrialist, has made a tannic, long-aging 2005 with an IPT reading similar to that of the estate's massive 2003, but with a lower pH and equal potential longevity. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the 2005 vintage as "like 2004 but with more of everything." The young 2005 has puzzled many early tasters, as it's so fine-grained it feels almost weightless, and its density is not obvious. The wine was also quite youthfully austere in early April, conveying a strong impression of minerality.
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This chateau has been on a roll in the new millennium, and the 2004 is once again a superstar of the vintage. According to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue, 2004 is a surprising vintage, in which "the maturity was made in September." He explained: "During the magnificent September, warm days and cool nights eliminated any possibility of rot. We feared dilution due to the big crop [57 hectoliters per hectare], but although the clusters were huge, the individual grapes were of a normal size. There was a lot of concentration of color and tannins. The wines are supple and fat, not austere, with the tannins more elegant than those of the 2002."
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