2012 Venus

Donelan is very much a family affair. Proprietor Joe Donelan is flanked by his two sons, Tripp and Cushing, both of whom seem cut from the same cloth. Joe Nielsen, who joined Donelan in 2009, has taken over winemaking duties, while departing winemaker Tyler Thomas stayed on to consult with the 2012 and 2013 vintages. Not much else seems to have changed. The focus continues to be on cool climate wines. Although the portfolio started with Rhone grapes, Joe Donelan told me he expected to increase the range of Pinot Noirs in the coming years. The reds are generally fermented with a fair amount of whole clusters and aged in neutral oak. In 2011, winemaker Joe Nielsen opted to give the wines more time in barrel than is typically the case. Like most producers, Donelan suffered through a brutal 2011 that brought with it small yields to start with, and then required considerable selection in the winery. For those sacrifices, Donelan has been rewarded with a stellar set of wines. I also had a chance to revisit many of the 2010s, wines that are just starting to uncoil and show their true pedigree.