2014 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

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Vincent Dauvissat told me that only his Vaillons and Preuses escaped the hail in 2015; he started picking on September 2. The wines all finished their alcoholic and malolactic fermentations by Christmas, "the earliest ever," he told me. He finds the 2015s very ripe, with higher-than-normal pHs. "But they also have plenty of minerality and they should age well," he added, "20 years without a problem for the grand crus."

Dauvissat's 2014s are actually a touch higher in alcohol (12.5% to 12.8%, with a bit of chaptalization) than his 2015s (around 12.5%, with no added sugar), but then, he added, "acid vintages can support more alcohol." These '14s boast uncanny density and penetration and should be long-lived. For his part, Dauvissat says '14 is "like a combination of the acidity of 2008 and the plenitude and maturity of 2002." That sounds to me like a recipe for greatness.

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Dauvissat described 2014 as a vintage with excellent acidity and no blockage of maturity during the warm, dry September weather leading up to the harvest. He chaptalized barely 0.2%, he told me, and that was mostly to balance the wine's strong acidity.

The 2013s here, which I liked very much a year ago from the barrel, have turned out well, showing good ripeness and healthy levels of acidity. "The surprise is the elegance of aromas despite the problems we had with the harvest," Dauvissat noted. His 2013 Clos may be the wine of the vintage.

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