2000 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

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I came away from this dinner impressed by the restaurant, since the service and food had been exquisite, and with a higher appreciation of Chablis than ever before. If this evening set out to demonstrate the apotheosis of Chablis, then it is “job done.” These wines may actually have surpassed my high expectations.

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Yes, there was rot in 2001, but the skins, and thus the flavors, were physiologically mature," said Chablis wizard Vincent Dauvissat. It was a matter of being careful with the pressing and the vinification. Dauvissat, who does not like wines with high alcohol, chaptalized no more than one degree "to respect the balance of the vintage: adding too much alcohol would have given the wine a burning aspect." The '01s will be barely 12.5% alcohol in bottle, but they hardly want for texture or intensity. The 2000s, adds Dauvissat, possess more material. The fruit was much healthier, less chaptalization was needed, and the wines have a better pH for aging. Like Bernard Raveneau, however, Dauvissat described 2000 as a very good vintage but not earth-shattering, due to the high crop level.

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