2009 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

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Vincent Dauvissat's 2010 harvest started on September 21st, a few days earlier than his average over the last ten years, which has been closer to September 25th. The vintage is marked by very low yields. Couleur and millerandage were most pronounced in the grand crus, where yields were 40% lower than normal. At the same time, the wines have retained plenty of acidity, making for very interesting personalities across the range. The 2010s were aged in oak (roughly 10% new), on their fine lees, and racked once after the malos, which were finished by the end of January. The Forest, Preuses and Clos saw some new oak during the alcoholic fermentation. Dauvissat planned to begin bottling the 2010s in October or November, 2011. In 2009, Dauvissat harvested a week earlier, starting on September 14. Vintage 2009 was marked by a hot August that resulted in ripe wines with acidities that are lower than normal. Within the context of Chablis, where acidity is rarely lacking, a warm yet well-balanced season can be a good thing in that the wines are easier to drink when young, which certainly appears to be the case here.

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There were two different harvests in 2010, said Vincent Dauvissat, who started picking on September 21: one before the rains that began on September 24, and one after. "Before the rain, the grapes were very concentrated, with high sugars, strong acidity and a bit of noble rot," he explained. "After the rain, the acidity fell, the yield was higher, and there was more juice in the grapes." On the whole, Dauvissat considers the 2010s to be tight, clean, classic wines, even though he described the grapes as "more mature" than in 2009. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; wines bottled under the Dauvissat-Camus label are imported by Classic Wine Imports, West Roxbury, MA)

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Dauvissat was quick to point out that 2009 was by no means a problem-free growing season in the vines. In June and July there was a lot of mildew, he told me, and of course there was plenty of millerandage during the flowering too. In contrast to the 2008s, which were not even tastable when I visited Dauvissat in June of 2009, the 2009 malos finished relatively early (the wines were racked in February) and Dauvissat was sure that he'd be bottling the new vintage earlier than the 2008s. He describes the young '09s as between 1989 and 1997 in style, but notes that they are lower in alcohol than the '89s. "They're low in acidity but the concentration from millerandage has given them enough stuffing." When I brought up the subject of how previous vintages were evolving, Dauvissat said that his 2004s are showing well now but that the 2002s still need time. To make the point, he opened a bottle of 2002 La Forest at the end of our tasting. Given its expressive aromas of bee pollen, honey, smoked meat and truffle, I could imagine some inexperienced tasters believing that the wine was just past its peak. But within minutes, this superb premier cru's powerful minerality and bright lemony cut made it clear that it was simply going through an awkward stage and was not ready to drink-at least not without a good aeration. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; the Dauvissat-Camus label is imported by Classic Wine Imports, West Roxbury, MA)

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