2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

I had heard rumors about Vincent Dauvissat's impending retirement, but I have to say I saw little evidence of that on my most recent visit. More importantly, the wines are just off the charts. When all is said and done, Dauvissat made a number of truly epic wines in 2017, culminating with Clos and Preuses, both of which are insanely beautiful. To me, Dauvissat embodies the style of Chablis today. The wines can be quite rich and potent, yet they retain tremendous site expression and plenty of sizzle. Readers will find all of those qualities in the 2017s. Dauvissat compares 2018 to 2009 in terms of balance. As it turns out, I drank a bottle of the 2009 Chablis a few days before I visited. I found it young and not quite ready to offer its best drinking.