2012 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru

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Tuscany is littered with dozens of exceptional and even world-class wine estates. When it comes to dining, though, things get much more dicey. It is not always easy to cut through the plethora of anonymous restaurants serving indifferent fare to the unsuspecting tourist crowd and find places that excel with both delicious, well-prepared food and a carefully thought out wine program. Located steps away from Siena’s Piazza del Campo, Osteria Le Logge is one of the bright spots in Tuscany’s food and wine scene.

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According to Vincent Dauvissat, 2013 is all about timing. Pick a day early and the fruit was under ripe, wait a day too long and the fruit was overripe. Today, the 2013s are quite open relative to the norm here. Whereas in 2012 some of the 1er Crus are stunning, in 2013s it is the Grand Crus where one really sees a significant step up in quality within the range. Dauvissat fans will note the addition of a new wine from Montée de Tonnerre, a significant change, to say the least. The 2012s in bottle are every bit as exciting as they were from barrel. In short, readers who can find these wines should not hesitate, as they are truly magnificent. As is often the case, my most recent visit ended with a few wines served blind. The last wine of the day was utterly spellbinding. It was also a poignant reminder of why we cellar Chablis in the first place. The wine: Dauvissat's 1996 Petit Chablis. No, that is not a misprint. How was it? Still fresh, vivid and exceptional to a degree only those in the cellar who tasted it with me would ever believe.

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Not surprisingly, Vincent Dauvissat has crafted some of the finest wines of the 2013 vintage, with his grand crus in particular spectacular for the year.He picked from September 28 until October 6, he told me, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol of 13% and up.The post-malo wines have healthy acid levels in the 4 to 4.5 grams per liter range.Dauvissat's finished 2012s are also splendid."It's a classic vintage that shows terroir clearly, and the fruit was cleaner than that of 2013," he said, adding that alcohol and acidity levels were "not huge" in 2012 and that yields were low:down 40% on average for his crus.He also finds the wines rather open today (he does a gentle bottling by gravity) and describes the young 2013s as "more minerally."

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Vincent Dauvissat's 2012s are going to be harder to find than normal. Hail and long, protracted flowering took with them big chunks of the estate's production. Yields are down 40% in Preuses and 30% in Clos, both utterly heartbreaking, to say the least. Dauvissat compares 2012 to 2010 stylistically, but with more richness and more acidity. The harvest started on September 21, nearly three weeks later than 2011. I expect the 2012s will require cellaring, but in the meantime, readers will find plenty of early appeal in the 2011s. Dauvissat describes 2011 as a vintage with lower acidity and lower sugars than 2011, but adds he thinks it will be regarded as a classic vintage, with wines that will drink well throughout their entire lives. In 2011 the malos were done by Christmas, the fastest ever at the domaine, and something Dauvissat had never seen before.

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Vincent Dauvissat likes the 2012s for their sheer drinkability and charm."They're less tight than the 2010s were, and the grapes didn't have the same exotic element of passerillage in 2012," he told me.But Dauvissat was concerned that fermentative aromas were blocking the minerality of some of his wines in early June (the later-than-normal malolactic fermentations finished by the end of February).Dauvissat began harvesting on September 21, with grape sugars between 12.5% and 13%.He did not chaptalize his 2012s.

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