2006 Chambertin Grand Cru

The Rossignol brothers are convinced that their 2007s are for drinking on the young side, before the 2006s and 2005s. "Certainly they can be opened in two or three years," said David Rossignol. "They are all about fruit. They're easy wines but they display nice terroir differences. If they don't have the energy of the 2006s, they're not flat either." The Rossignols racked the wines from barrel to barrel in the spring, just to leave behind most of the lees while keeping as much CO2 as possible to protect the fruit. As their vines are not vigorous (estate-wide yields in both '06 and '07 were in the 25 to 30 hectoliters-per-hectare range for the premier grand crus and between 35 and 40 for the premier crus), they had little problem with rot in 2007, except in Beaune. The most important change here in recent years has been a steady shift to less extraction during the vinification. "It's more important to pick later to get truly ripe skins," noted Nicolas, who told me that the 2007s were completely destemmed, and the '06s vinified with about 20% of their stems. (Represented by Richard Malcomson, Beaune, France; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; New France Wine Company, St. Paul, MN; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; and Potomac Selections, Landover, MD)

Brothers David and Nicolas Rossignol have introduced a number of changes at the family domain in recent years, including a reduction in the percentage of new oak, a slower malolactic fermentation, and, since 2004, a longer elevage and later bottling under the direction of enologist Pierre Millman. Beginning with the 2005 vintage, the Rossignols introduced separate bottlings of their premier crus Combottes, Cherbaudes and Corbeaux, which had previously been blended into a single premier cru release. In 2006, the Rossignols harvested on the early side, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol around 12.4% and then chaptalizing moderately to about 13.2% to prolong the fermentations. The estate has been farmed biodynamically as of 2004. (Represented by Richard Malcomson, Beaune, France; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; New France Wine Company, St. Paul, MN; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; and Potomac Selections, Landover, MD) Also recommended: Beaune Teurons (86), Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois (87), Gevrey-Chambertin Combottes (87). Other wines tasted: Gevrey-Chambertin*.