2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Village

Winemaker Sabine Mollard is doing great things in Chassagne at Domaine Marc Morey, continuing to fly under the radar for many Burgundy lovers. “It was warm in 2022,” she explained in her underground, almost grotto-like, tasting room. “We started picking August 26, very early. There were a lot of bunches as the vines were compensating for the previous year, but without a lot of juice when we did the pressing. There was also some oïdium that reduced the volume in the end. The vinification was fine, with normal acidity levels, and I didn’t have to make any adjustments apart from chaptalizing just one vat. The Premier Crus are matured in around 30% new oak. Some cuvées have been bottled in August, but the majority will be in January next year. The Chassagne Vergers is my favorite at the moment, though the Virondot always tastes better with bottle age. The reds had been sulfured the day before my visit, so were not presented.” There is an excellent set of 2022s at this address, some bottled and others waiting. Though I agree with Mollard about the Vergers, I felt that Caillerets had a touch more complexity, and in the long term, I am certain that the Virondot will take top honors, underlining my score. It might be the best she has ever made and even outshone her Bâtard-Montrachet.