1997 Chambertin Grand Cru

Jean-Louis Trapet gave his fruit an extended cold maceration of eight to ten days following the '98 harvest, then did gentler and somewhat less frequent punching down of the cap because of the tougher tannins of the vintage. (Since '96, Trapet has used broad, shallow stainless steel tanks that allow for easier pigeage. The wines, from yields generally in the 25 hectoliters-per-hectare range according to Trapet, offer unusually lush textures for the vintage, thanks in part to minimal use of SO2 which many '98s in other cellars have been absorbing at a snail's pace. Several of the Trapet '98 cuvees show exotic torrefaction notes of bitter chocolate, espresso or mocha. The '97s at this address, especially Trapet's trio of Gevrey grand crus, have turned out extremely well. (A Patrick Lesec Selection; importers include The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; and Fine Vines, Maywood, IL)

Nineteen ninety seven was Burgundy most Mediterranean vintage since 1990, according to Jean Louis Trapet. "It was hot in terms of the temperature of the grapes and the levels of potential alcohol." Gentle extraction and cold elevage were necessary to preserve fruit. For some of his lesser cuvees Trapet used a bit of acidification to facilitate the extraction of color during cuvaison but none of the grand crus were acidified. I tasted most of the '97s from tank, where they were awaiting bottling. Trapet's wines continue to improve from vintage to vintage, and he has excelled in both '97 and '96. (A Patrick Lesec Selection; importers include Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; Monsieur Touton, New York, NY; and The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL)