2003 Echezeaux
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Gilles Jayer considers 2004 to be a classic vintage, "between 2000 and 2001 in character. "The Hautes Cotes de Beaune had just been sulfited a couple of days before my visit, but the rest of the 2004s had been treated in September. Jayer was among the latest pickers in 2003, and his top wines from this vintage are stunning. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )
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Gilles Jayer did two pigeages per day in 2003 but no pumpovers because, he explains, remontage brings oxygen to the must and would have speeded up the fermentations.The pHs here are quite healthy in the context of the year, and the wines do not lack for freshness-despite the fact that Jayer did not start harvesting until September 3.The malolactic fermentations, which are normally late here, only finished in October of 2004, which has also helped preserve vibrancy.(Some of the 2002 malos lingered until November or December of 2003, and these wines were bottled in April of 2004.)(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)