2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

Since proprietor Edouard Labruyére was away during my visit – unsurprising given that he concurrently runs estates in Pomerol, Moulin-à-Vent and most recently in Champagne – I tasted the reds with head winemaker Nadine Gublin. “For the reds, we started the picking on September 6 in the Volnay Santenots and finished on September 12,” she explained as we embarked on their comprehensive portfolio. “I think it is more a vintage for the whites,” she opined, though that said, the domaine’s reds are not shabby at all. Gublin is probably correct in that I have tasted better vintages of their reds in the past; however, the winemaking is far better than it was 10 or 20 years ago, when some subpar wines rather sullied the name. These days, there is much more consistency, and their use of whole bunches is discreet and assiduous. Perhaps this is a vintage where their enviable array of Grand Crus do not place so much distance between themselves and the Premier Crus. Head for their Beaune Clos de la Féguine or Champs Pimonts for what should be good value, and also the Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru sourced from younger vines in Chambertin.