2013 Chablis Vieilles Vignes
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2015 - 2020
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Potential alcohol levels were in the high 12.5% to 12.9% range in 2014, said Didier Picq, and the sugar fermentations lingered until late March, finishing after the malos (a couple of village cuvees still had over three grams per liter of r.s. at the time of my visit). Acidity levels ranged from 4.1 to 4.8 grams per liter, "like 2008 and 2012," Picq told me, adding that crop levels were mostly generous in '14, and actually higher for the premier crus than for his village vines. All of the wines had been racked in March and were still on their fine lees. Picq believes that 2014 will be a long-aging vintage, and he intends to bottle a lot of magnums. He vinifies entirely with wild yeasts and eschews fining, clarifying his wines only with a light filtration. He has no oak in his cellar.
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Didier Picq's 2013 are rich and extroverted, which is not surprising, as late harvests are the rule here. Picq describes the berries as concentrated, with not a lot of juice and some noble rot. The 2013s were brought in between September 26 and October 8, with the tail end of the harvest taking place quite late for the year. By comparison, in 2012 the harvest was about a week earlier. Yields were down dramatically in 2013 to about 50% of 2012 levels.
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Didier Picq was dressed in his weekend finest, about to go off to a friend's wedding, when I visited him on a hot sweaty Saturday afternoon in early June.He was also recovering from a serious shoulder infection and facing the prospect of more surgery, but still in his customary sunny mood.Picq harvested from September 26 until October 8 in 2013, getting some surmaturite as well as a bit of rot toward the end."The grapes were falling off the vines," he told me."It was a small crop with good ripeness, and a lot of sorting was necessary in certain spots."Grape sugars ranged from 12% to 12.9%, he added, and the less-ripe lots were moderately chaptalized.Although production was low in 2013, there were even more problems with the flowering on the Rive Droite in 2012.The 2013s were on their fine lees after being racked in March.