2012 Chablis Vieilles Vignes
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Didier Picq's 2013 are rich and extroverted, which is not surprising, as late harvests are the rule here. Picq describes the berries as concentrated, with not a lot of juice and some noble rot. The 2013s were brought in between September 26 and October 8, with the tail end of the harvest taking place quite late for the year. By comparison, in 2012 the harvest was about a week earlier. Yields were down dramatically in 2013 to about 50% of 2012 levels.
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Didier Picq was dressed in his weekend finest, about to go off to a friend's wedding, when I visited him on a hot sweaty Saturday afternoon in early June. He was also recovering from a serious shoulder infection and facing the prospect of more surgery, but still in his customary sunny mood. Picq harvested from September 26 until October 8 in 2013, getting some surmaturite as well as a bit of rot toward the end. "The grapes were falling off the vines," he told me. "It was a small crop with good ripeness, and a lot of sorting was necessary in certain spots." Grape sugars ranged from 12% to 12.9%, he added, and the less-ripe lots were moderately chaptalized. Although production was low in 2013, there were even more problems with the flowering on the Rive Droite in 2012. The 2013s were on their fine lees after being racked in March.
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Didier Picq brought in his 2012s between the end of September and early October. Yields were down 30-35%, with early flowering parcels on the Right Bank most affected by hail and coulure (shatter). Picq's 2012 are big, rich wines very much in the style the house is known for. The 2011s, on the other hand, are the product of a more generous and earlier ripening vintage that yielded a set of immediate wines best suited to near-term drinking.
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Didier Picq was not the only grower I visited this year who maintained that the rain that fell on September 23 and 24 of 2012 was constructive. "Early on, the acidity levels in the grapes were very high," he explained. "It reminded me of 1996." Picq started harvesting on the 26th and picked until October 4. By waiting, he gained 10% to 15% more juice, the acidity levels went down, and the grape sugars didn't go up much. "Before that, the wines were a bit vegetal. So by waiting we were able to make rounder wines without too much of a loss in acidity. And the 2010s have good minerality--like 2010 but with a bit more flesh and fruit." Picq emphasized that the Rive Droite, which flowered very early, was hit hard by coulure, whereas the Rive Gauche, which is where 80% of his production comes from, produced almost a normal crop load in 2012.
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