2018 Chablis Vieilles Vignes

My visit to Domaine Picq at the entrance of Chichée often serves as a barometer for how the region performed generally in a given vintage. Didier Picq’s wines are the epitome of nervy, almost Zen-like Chablis that would run a mile if someone even mentioned “oak” in their presence. Yet, Picq manages to imbue his half-dozen or so cuvées with immense concentration and flavor year after year. Without wishing to sound like a broken record, the direct comparison of 2018 and 2019 demonstrates that the latter are clearly superior. “I prefer the 2019 vintage, which is more mineral and more Chablis,” Picq opined. “The 2018, that I picked from 4 September, is richer and more powerful, more like 2015. The 2019 is half the crop of 2018 and was picked from 14-21 September.” Readers should not overlook the 2018s, particular Picq’s splendid Chablis Vieilles Vignes from vines turning septuagenarian next year. Glug that down whilst waiting for the stunning 2019 that emitted so much energy that it could supply electricity for a small suburban town for a year. If you are seeking quintessential Chablis, then this is the address to head for.

I was really impressed with this collection from Didier Picq. The wines are so much more refined than they were a few years ago, when the house style was often more about brawn than finesse. That is hardly the case today. Specifically, some of the village-level cuvées are incredibly delicious.