2009 Chablis Vieilles Vignes

Wine Details
Place of Origin

France

Chablis

Chablis

Color

White

Grape/Blend

Chardonnay

Reviews & Tasting Notes

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Drinking Window

2013 - 2016

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Didier Picq's vineyards are all located in the Chichée, which is just a few kilometers outside Chablis. Picq is among the growers who use stainless steel exclusively. The wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts, which is not as common in Chablis as it is in other parts of Burgundy. The wines undergo full malolactic fermentation and are bottled on the late side. The house style is one that emphasizes a bold, direct expression of fruit with tonalities that tend towards peach and apricot rather than the brighter, citrus-infused end of the spectrum. The wines can be enjoyed pretty much upon release. I tasted all of the 2010s from tank and the 2009s from bottle. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s here are rich and low in acidity (in relative terms) while the 2010s are decidedly cooler and focused. Picq plans to bottle his 2010s in January/February 2012.

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Didier Picq told me he''s been starting with more bourbes, and yet he hasn't had to fine any of his wines in three or four years, as they've had little in the way of proteins. "It's really a mystery to me that the wines are falling bright," he said. Picq described his 2009s as "too easy, but nicely balanced; they got better later in elevage, and started showing more terroir character. But they don''t have the tension or the impact of the 2010s."

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Didier Picq told me that he never took longer to harvest than he did in 2009. "I started on September 15 and finished on September 30, but we really only picked on seven different days," he told me. It's worth noting that Picq uses wild yeasts, which can take a good six weeks to finish fermentations. While wild yeast fermentations are common at the best Cote de Beaune estates, many Chablis producers inoculate with commercial yeasts and thus get much faster fermentations. Picq describes his 2009 crop of wines as "a classic, rich style, a bit like 2006. It's 2003 that's atypical here." He believes that the 2009s will be easy to drink. Picq said that he doesn't plan to do his first bottling of 2009 until September. To make the point that his wines age (his first harvest was 1989), Picq opened a bottle of the basic 1994 village wine, which he noted did not include the addition of the old-vines juice. It was very much a point, with no shortage of energy.