2004 Gevrey-Chambertin Poissenot 1er Cru

Geantet had two sorting tables in 2004 for the first time, the second one allowing his team to remove less-good grapes berry by berry after the fruit had been destemmed. In the end, he said, he eliminated up to 20% of the crop, and the second sorting table made a big difference in the quality of the wine. (His new destemmer also breaks fewer grapes. )Geantet describes the 2004s as very fruity and elegant wines, with good balance. "They have good ripeness and good acidity, and they don't have dry tannins like the 2003s," he went on. "As a result, they will be approachable early but they have the acidity to age. It's a vintage of the premier crus more than the village wines. "Indeed, Geantet's top cuvees are distinctly silkier than the rest, with fatter middles. As usual at this address, the wines had been bottled by the time of my November visit.