2006 Meursault Les Narvaux

In direct contrast to 2006, when he picked on the late side, Vincent Boyer harvested chardonnay mostly between September 5 and 8, bringing in his fruit with about 12.5% potential alcohol and chaptalizing most of his cuvees to 13%. He stirred the lees weekly until January, then stopped. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; and Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA) Also recommended: Meursault en L'Ormeau (86), Meursault Les Chaumes des Perrieres (86), Puligny-Montrachet Les Rucheaux (85).

"We had sufficient grape sugars on September 18 but we didn't yet have enough concentration," said Vincent Boyer, explaining why he waited until the 23rd to start harvesting in 2006. Despite picking on the late side, though, he told me that acid levels were sound and that no acidification was needed. "And there weren't a lot of blue grapes," noted Boyer, referring to a phenomenon reported by many late pickers, who watched their grape skins take on a bluish tone following thunderstorms during the main week of the harvest, perhaps due to abrupt changes in atmospheric pressure. As in past years, my notes on finished wines here include a mix of special bottlings done for U.S. importer North Berkeley Imports and Boyer's regular bottlings. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; and Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA) Also recommended: 2005 Meursault L'Ormeau*.