2010 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru

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2013 - 2013

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Bernard Billaud told me he views 2011 as a classic Chablis vintage, one of the few producers who holds that view. The vintage started early, with flowering that was three weeks ahead of schedule. The harvest began on September 10, as opposed to late September/early October, which is much more common. Billaud likes the combination of fruit and acidity in this vintage. I tasted most of the 2011s from tank and/or barrel, except the Petit Chablis and Chablis, which were bottled in May 2012. Always eloquent, Billaud describes 2010 as a ‘grand millesime.' Vintage 2010 at the domaine was characterized by a rainy summer with little heat. On average, yields were down 25%. Billaud bottled his 2010 grand crus in May 2012.

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As has been his habit in most recent years, Bernard Billaud harvested on the late side in 2011, beginning on September 10.Following light chaptalization, the new set of wines will be bottled with alcohol levels between 12.5% and 12.8%, he said, with roughly the same acidity as the 2010s (around 4 grams per liter).Billaud describes 2011 as a very good year:"The wines lack a bit of structure but will give a lot of pleasure," he explained."The wines are not as opulent as the 2010s, but less sorting was needed, as we had virtually no rot in '11."

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2015 - 2025

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Billaud-Simon is now run by Bernard Billaud, following the exit of his nephew, Samuel Billaud, last year. The 2009 harvest began in late September and ran into early October, quite late by Chablis standards in this vintage. Not surprisingly, the Billaud-Simon 2009s are built on an expression of generous fruit that shows the ripeness and softness of the vintage. The 2009s were bottled beginning in September, 2010. As is quite common, the 1er and grand crus saw a longer élevage, here roughly 16-18 months and the last of the grand crus were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted most of the 2010s from tank and barrel, including several lots of the Petit Chablis and Chablis that had just been racked and were impossible to read. The estate began harvesting the 2010s on October 1st. It was a year in which maturation happened only at the very end of the season.

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Bernard Billaud told me he always picks late, as he doesn''t like "green, acid wines." He waited especially long in 2010, beginning only on September 30. "It was a cooler year and we had to wait for ripeness," he explained. The 2010s here are indeed fresh and straight, while the 2009s are more exuberant, even if the grand crus had been bottled literally days before my visit.

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