2006 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru

It remains to be seen how ongoing differences-generational and philosophical-between Bernard Billaud and his nephew Samuel Billaud will be resolved. The matter appears to be headed for arbitration and the split-up of the domain is a distinct possibility. Among the points of disagreement here in a couple recent vintages have been the selection of the harvesting dates: my own feeling is that Billaud-Simon picked too late in 2006 to make wines in the classically brisk style of this producer but did a better job in 2007. Some of the 2006s are rich and satisfying but show a distinctly exotic, honeyed cast. Tasting the 2007s at the end of May was a bit of an adventure, as several of the wines were in full malo and a couple were not in a condition to taste.

Bernard Billaud was eager to discuss global warming and the changing climate of Chablis. And he clearly did not agree with the opinion that global warming was a net positive for Chablis. "Now we have a more violent climate," he said, "and extremes are never good for the vines. And nowadays we have to be very precise about picking dates, as the vines pass into surmaturite very quickly, as they did in both 2005 and 2006." My chance to see the 2006s here was limited, as the grand crus were in full malo and a few wines-or components of wines-were being racked. This domain continues to be one of my favorite sources for precise, minerally Chablis raised in stainless steel. Billaud described 2005 as "a year of pleasure and generosity." Two thousand six was a hotter year, he went on, yielding riper grapes with similar acidity levels. The new vintage produced pinker grapes and an element of noble rot, he added, "but although the fruit was very ripe, there's also good minerality underneath."(Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA) Previously recommended: 2005 Petit Chablis (87), 2005 Chablis (89), 2005 Chablis Les Vaillons (90), 2005 Chablis Mont de Milieu (90), 2005 Chablis Fourchaume (90+?).