2009 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru

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Billaud-Simon is now run by Bernard Billaud, following the exit of his nephew, Samuel Billaud, last year. The 2009 harvest began in late September and ran into early October, quite late by Chablis standards in this vintage. Not surprisingly, the Billaud-Simon 2009s are built on an expression of generous fruit that shows the ripeness and softness of the vintage. The 2009s were bottled beginning in September, 2010. As is quite common, the 1er and grand crus saw a longer élevage, here roughly 16-18 months and the last of the grand crus were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted most of the 2010s from tank and barrel, including several lots of the Petit Chablis and Chablis that had just been racked and were impossible to read. The estate began harvesting the 2010s on October 1st. It was a year in which maturation happened only at the very end of the season.

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Bernard Billaud told me he always picks late, as he doesn''t like "green, acid wines." He waited especially long in 2010, beginning only on September 30. "It was a cooler year and we had to wait for ripeness," he explained. The 2010s here are indeed fresh and straight, while the 2009s are more exuberant, even if the grand crus had been bottled literally days before my visit.

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Bernard Billaud describes the 2009s as "fruity, ripe, open wines: a vintage of pleasure." Potential alcohol levels were a bit higher than those of 2008, but Billaud noted that he has not chaptalized any of his wines in recent years. I found that the higher alcohol levels give these wines a warmer character than the 2008s, but then the same thing can be said about the 2009 vintage at many of the estates I visited in June. Billaud described 2007 and 2002 (!) as "rigorous, incisive, academic, classic" vintages and left little doubt that he prefers more austere, mineral-driven vintages. (Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA) Also recommended: 2008 Petit Chablis (86).

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